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At this 100-year-old church in Tiffany, Colorado, an old pump organ waits all year to be played

The Iglesia de San Antonio in Tiffany, Colorado is nearly 100 years old, and open once a year for mass in June.
Courtesy of Ruth Lambert
The Iglesia de San Antonio in Tiffany, Colorado is nearly 100 years old, and open once a year for mass in June.

The old pump organ sits in the choir loft of this tiny adobe church in Tiffany, Colorado.

This reed organ is about the size of a writing desk, built nearly a hundred years ago by Estey Organ of Brattleboro, Vermont.

The Etsey pump organ at the Iglesia de San Antonio is estimated to be nearly as old as the church itself.
The Etsey pump organ at the Iglesia de San Antonio is estimated to be nearly as old as the church itself.

On a good day, the foot pedals still pump air through the bellows, and some of the stops still send air through the reeds.

"I'm amazed it still makes sound," said Carol Thurman, a pianist and organ player who lives in Hesperus. "It has seen a lot of history."

Thurman plays organ at Sacred Heart church in Durango, but for the past four years, she has sat at the keyboard of the old Estey Organ in the Tiffany church for the annual mass.

It's the only day the Tiffany Church is open.

"Only five of the stops seem to be working right now," Thurman said. "One of the keys is stuck. But it still makes a lot of sound."

On a weekday in May, with red-winged blackbirds whistling in the cottonwood tree outside the church, Thurman ran through a few hymns.

Foot power. Pump organ players need to learn to keep their feet pedaling to push air through the organ reeds.
Foot power. Pump organ players need to learn to keep their feet pedaling to push air through the organ reeds.

"Pumping with your feet is a little distracting from trying to play your music," she said. "It's more of a full-body workout. It's a lot like riding a bike, I think."

You probably wouldn't stumble on the Iglesia de San Antonio. To find this historic church, south of Ignacio, Colorado, you have to exit the highway onto a grid of dirt roads that crisscross through farmlands just a few miles from the state border with New Mexico.

Somewhere in there is the historic settlement of Tiffany, Colorado.

"I don't know how big Tiffany ever got to be, but it was a stop on the railroad for a while," said Carol Thurman. "Now you wouldn't know there was a town there, really."

Hispanic residents built the Catholic church in 1928. These days, the adobe is crumbling, paint is flaking off the wooden bell tower, and steel cables hold the walls together. But the interior is painted and clean, and every June, the Iglesia de San Antonio opens its doors for the annual mass.

"This is a very special place," Thurman said. "You just feel all the people that have been here, through the years. The people that built this church with their own hands, and worshipped here. And yes, it has cracks, it needs repairs, it's held together by cables. But it stands."

Carol Thurman plays the old pump organ at the Iglesia de San Antonio once a year.
courtesy of Carol Thurman
Carol Thurman plays the old pump organ at the Iglesia de San Antonio once a year.

In 2019, Colorado Preservation Incorporated listed the Tiffany Church as one of the state most endangered historic sites, and several community members are fundraising for a restoration effort.

In the meantime, for as long as the organ works, and for as long as Carol Thurman is able to play it, she'll be there each year for the annual mass.

"The organ is the human voice. It breathes like we do. How it makes sound is a lot like our voices," Thurman said. "It sings, and so it is kind of like a living thing."

She says each year when she climbs the rickety stairs into the choir loft, it feels like seeing an old friend.

"I know it's not alive, but it is a very special instrument," she said. "And it's waiting all year to be played."

Adam has been working on projects with KSUT since 2018. He created and launched Native Braids (in partnership with KSUT Tribal Radio), he led the One Small Step project for KSUT and StoryCorps in the Four Corners region, and he's one of the creatives behind The Magic City of the Southwest—a regional history podcast. Adam's field reporting and documentaries have aired on NPR, American Public Media, BBC, CBC.